Growing up in Kuala Lumpur in the ‘60s, we had a Sunday routine of Banana Leaf Cuisine for lunch. We’d take a 5-tier tiffin-carrier to the Ceylon Restaurant in Malay Street and buy the food there and take it home where we’d eat it.Fish, chicken, mutton or a different chicken preparation, 2 types of vegetables, and pappadum packed separately. The chicken was always Ceylonese Chicken Curry; that was the one thing that never changed, because it was such a fantastic tasting dish that the whole family loved it.
The Ceylon restaurant had two floors. On the ground floor, the centre section had long communal tables. At the sides and upstairs were smaller tables.
At meal times, people would come in and either sit at the long communal style tables or smaller tables. Without a word, a banana leaf would be put in front of the person, and a generous helping of rice dished out.
The waiter would then ask the customer if anything special was wanted, special meaning chicken, fish or meat or some such item. Meantime, another waiter would come with a multi-sectioned serving platter and dish out portions of 3 types of vegetables. This would be followed by the ‘gravy’ waiter who would come with this 3 sectioned container and offer a choice of fish curry gravy, chicken curry gravy or dhall. One of them would then return with any extra orders, and put down 2 or 3 pieces of pappadum.
Unless you made an order for the specials, it all came at a fixed price. For that price, you could ask for more rice and gravy if you wanted. Basically, you were guaranteed a full stomach at a fixed low price.
Fish would be sold by the piece, as would large kurma style or fried chicken pieces. Small chicken pieces like the Ceylonese Chicken Curry would be sold by the plate, a plate being a small saucer holding enough for a single portion.
The Ceylon Restaurant continued to be popular well into the ‘70s. Indeed, when I started work in Kuala Lumpur, Saturday lunch there was a routine.
Then I left Kuala Lumpur in the late ‘70s. When I went back sometime in the ‘80s (if my memory serves me correctly), the place was gone. Friends recommended other Banana Leaf restaurants. Whilst some of them were good, none had the very special Ceylonese Chicken Curry.
There were obviously people who knew how to cook it. The caterers at a friends wedding some years back served a pretty good version of it. So, I experimented with several recipes, made a few tweaks and came up with the one on my site.
As usual, I continue to experiment, and am considering increasing the quantities of coriander seeds, among other things.